Foggy Sunset

Foggy Sunset
Photo by Aisling Doonan

Sunday, 25 July 2010

NicEoin Scarf Tutorial

I have started on a new scarf design and I thought I would share the start up process with you as I have three other scarves in the pipeline (Piotal Tiuilip, Glebe & Naughty Sophia) and my Ardrum Scarf also begins the same way.  My Glenlara Shawlette & Katydid Neckerchief also have similar construction, even though they are triangular, so hopefully this helps!

Picture 1.

This picture shows the first six points of the edging knit and still on the needle.  I finished with an even (garter stitch) row.  You can see the white wool at the bottom that I used as a waste wool cast on.  You knit three rows of this before beginning with your project yarn.

Picture 2.

This is a close up of the provisional cast on in white wool.  I use a yarn that’s slightly thicker than the yarn in my project and a contrasting colour, to make it easier to distinguish one from the other.

Picture 3.

Turn your knitting on its side (with the ‘points’ pointing downwards, you should have the flat edge of the edging at the top) and with the live stitches in your right hand (I’m a right handed knitter, place in your left hand if you knit the opposite way!) pick up the loops that are between the rows and knit them to make the stitches for the body of the scarf.  I have added a stitch marker (Orange) to mark the end of the edging stitches and the beginning of the scarf centre stitches.

Picture 4.

In my scarves, as the edging is knit at the same time as the centre, I have gathered the edging at the corners so that they ‘go around’ easily and don’t pucker once the scarf is blocked.  For this scarf, I knit 6 points to start with and for the first two points and the last two points I have gathered these points by picking up and knitting 11 stitches for the first two and 12 stitches for the last two.  The picture shows 11 stitches picked up over 2 points.  As there are 12 loops per point, I actually picked up two loops at the same time and then knit them together to make one stitch.  Once this gathering is done you can pick up one stitch per loop as normal.

Picture 5.

Photo 5 shows the stitches picked up from the waste wool cast on.  It’s a little hard to see but you pick up live stitches and then snip out the waste wool.  I usually put the stitches on the needle before I snip out the waste wool so that I don’t lose them by accident.  Knit across these live stitches also.  I have added a stitch marker here as well to differentiate between the edging and centre.

Picture 6.

A photo of the waste wool being snipped out.  Don’t forget to knit across these stitches to the end of the row.

Picture 7, 8 & 9

These photos show the scarf in progress.  You can see how the edging eases itself around the corners of the scarf and continues up the sides of the scarf seamlessly.  You can see both stitch markers on each side of the scarf centre.  I use different colours on each side, green on the right and orange on the left.  This way I know which is the right and wrong side facing me.  I place the green on the right of the right side of the scarf facing me.  As the scarf is entirely knit in garter stitch, it is reversible so when you are knitting the pattern you need to mark the right side somehow otherwise you’ll lose your way!

Happy knitting!

NicEoin Scarf Finishing Tutorial

As I have finished my NicEoin scarf (and I’m currently wearing it!) I have some photos of the finishing process, completing the edging along the top edge of the scarf.  It sounds a little fussy and complicated but it leaves only a small amount of stitches to be grafted together at the end.  It makes a seamless scarf and it’s nice to get to the end and know that you don’t have to still knit on the edging before you get to finish and wear your lovely lace.

Photo 1.

Shows the scarf after the last row of the pattern has been knit.  You can see I have two stitch markers (orange and green) marking where the edging and the body of the scarf meet and then I have added two extra green markers 9 and 10 stitches into the body of the scarf (the body of the scarf has 43 stitches – 9 left hand side, 24 centre and 10 right hand side)

The edging uses 12 stitches per repeat.  I want to fit in 6 repeats of the edging onto the top, gathering them at the edges so that the scarf will sit flat when blocked.  So as with the beginning of the scarf I am going to gather 2 repeats of the edging at the corners and then have 2 repeats in the centre of the scarf. 

I need 24 stitches in the centre of the scarf to complete 2 repeats of the edging (12 x 2 = 24) I have 43 stitches in the scarf body altogether, take away the 24 for the centre two points leaves 19 stitches which I divide equally on each side of the centre (43 – 24 = 19) leaving 9 on the left and 10 on the right.  I can gather the two edging points on each side by attaching to the scarf body as per the pattern instructions.

Photo 2.

Shows the first two points gathered around the corner of the scarf.  This uses up the first ten stitches reserved from the top of the scarf body.

Photo 3 & 4.

Shows a close up of the right hand corner of the scarf.

Photo 5, 6 & 7.

Shows the next two edging points knit using up the following 24 reserved stitches at the top of the scarf body.

Photo 8 & 9.


Shows the last two edging points gathered at the left hand side, with the stitches still on the needles.  On the left hand needle is the left hand edging and on the right hand needle is the right hand edging.  You can now graft these two sides together for a seamless finish.

Photo 10.

 Et Voila!  My scarf all blocked and waiting to be worn!

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